Monday, February 26, 2007
Bergen Gasser EB and Camera Mount for Sale
I'm putting my gasser cameraship and camera mount up for sale. Reason being is that I am moving to an electric setup and mast.
Bergen Gasser EB with the Zenoah G26 engine. Runs very smooth and makes lots of power. Included with the helicopter are Hirobo weighted paddles, NHP 800 mm main blades, 105mm tail blades. Duralite 4000 mah 7.4v battery and regulator. Engine has 4 and a half gallons through it, running Ozark white gas with 5oz/gal amsoil synthetic.
Camera mount is a Airfoil Helicam Professional M1 Carbon. Servo operated pan/tilt (included). Roll dampened by RC shock and rubber bands to allow for adjust ability.
Pictures Below - if you want pictures of anything specific let me know:
http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0006lp8.jpg
http://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0007lt5.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0008ar2.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0009yv5.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0011rx3.jpg
*Pictures show servos, gyro and AP2000i installed. Those are not included in the price but we could work something out if you wanted them. I would be willing to include to include the four Futaba 9252 digital servos for $250, $320 if you were to buy them yourself.
What I paid:
Bergen Gasser EB w/ G26 - 1520
Duralite Setup (battery, charger, regulator)- 170
Airfoil M1 Caron - 800
NHP 800mm Blades - 130
Total - 2620
I would like to sell this as a package but am willing to split it up. Some prices to start with below, make an offer and I will consider it.
Bergen and Mount - 1850 + Shipping
Bergen Only - 1375 + Shipping
Mount Only - 625 + Shipping
I will consider trades of a Logo 10 setup for AP work using the AskmanAP mount and A123 packs.
Feel free to e-mail, call or post here. Thanks for looking.
Bergen Gasser EB with the Zenoah G26 engine. Runs very smooth and makes lots of power. Included with the helicopter are Hirobo weighted paddles, NHP 800 mm main blades, 105mm tail blades. Duralite 4000 mah 7.4v battery and regulator. Engine has 4 and a half gallons through it, running Ozark white gas with 5oz/gal amsoil synthetic.
Camera mount is a Airfoil Helicam Professional M1 Carbon. Servo operated pan/tilt (included). Roll dampened by RC shock and rubber bands to allow for adjust ability.
Pictures Below - if you want pictures of anything specific let me know:
http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0006lp8.jpg
http://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0007lt5.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0008ar2.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0009yv5.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0011rx3.jpg
*Pictures show servos, gyro and AP2000i installed. Those are not included in the price but we could work something out if you wanted them. I would be willing to include to include the four Futaba 9252 digital servos for $250, $320 if you were to buy them yourself.
What I paid:
Bergen Gasser EB w/ G26 - 1520
Duralite Setup (battery, charger, regulator)- 170
Airfoil M1 Caron - 800
NHP 800mm Blades - 130
Total - 2620
I would like to sell this as a package but am willing to split it up. Some prices to start with below, make an offer and I will consider it.
Bergen and Mount - 1850 + Shipping
Bergen Only - 1375 + Shipping
Mount Only - 625 + Shipping
I will consider trades of a Logo 10 setup for AP work using the AskmanAP mount and A123 packs.
Feel free to e-mail, call or post here. Thanks for looking.
Friday, November 17, 2006
Neural Robotics: Autocopter Express
Neural Robotics Inc recently put a flight demonstration on Runryder. I contacted Lyle from NRI and asked if I could do a writeup on the Autocopter Express E which he agreed to. I'll show the video, do an overview of the video, and list the costs of the unit.Here is the flight demonstration of the Autocopter Express E
The video shows the startup procedure, flight in the buffer zone, flight at altitude as well as how you would do a panoramic photograph. That Autocopter Express E is based on a Maxi-Joker 2 airframe with the NRI flight control system to provide a stabilized platform for aerial photography or surveillance. The NRI system is able to hold the helicopter in the same spot on the same heading providing a perfect platform for aerial photography. Flight times are 10 to 12 minutes per battery pack with a maximum payload of five pounds. The base package includes everything needed to get the system in the air, install your camera and you are ready for aerial photography.
Startup Procedure - As with any other helicopter you first turn on your transmitter, followed by the NRI control system. Upon powering up the NRI box it goes through a series of self checks to make sure all sensors as well as the GPS unit are functioning properly. The helicopter must be pointed south (within 5 degrees) during startup. Once the box has initialized you spool up the helicopter just like you would with any other. Raise throttle trim until the rotors start spinning, then raise throttle to the half way mark. Then switch into idle up mode and finally switch to idle up two which activates the flight computer. In idle up and normal mode the helicopter flies without the assistance of the NRI unit.
Buffer Zone Controls - The buffer zone is activated and deactivated automatically depending on altitude. In this mode the left stick determines what mode you fly in and the right stick is dependent on the left stick. With the left stick at the top you are in vertical mode. Rudder acts as it normally does while the right stick controls climb rate. You simply push up on the right stick to climb and down on the right stick to descend. With the left stick at the bottom you enter horizontal mode. As with vertical mode rudder remains the same. The right stick now controls like it would on a normal helicopter. Push forward and the helicopter will enter forward flight, pull back to enter backwards flight. Let off and the helicopter will return to a hover. Left and right movement of the right stick move the helicopter left and right.
Operating Altitude Controls - Once you leave the buffer zone the helicopter controls like a regular remote control helicopter. The left stick controls rudder and collective while the right controls the cyclic. The NRI control system limits the speed at which the helicopter can move and returns the helicopter to a hover as soon as the sticks are released.
Landing - Landing is just as simple as flying the unit. While out of the buffer zone lower collective and the machine will stop descending once it enters the buffer zone. At this point use horizontal mode to position the helicopter over the landing area. Put the helicopter in vertical mode and land. Very simple and smooth
Emergency Situations - The way the software is setup all you would need to do if you had to do a forced auto would be switch to idle up. You would then auto it like any other helicopter. Having it easy to disable the flight computer is a very good idea and was well thought out.
Pricing - *all subject to change, please contact NRI for latest information and prices.
The Autocopter Express E sells for $16,700. This includes:
Nice work guys
Startup Procedure - As with any other helicopter you first turn on your transmitter, followed by the NRI control system. Upon powering up the NRI box it goes through a series of self checks to make sure all sensors as well as the GPS unit are functioning properly. The helicopter must be pointed south (within 5 degrees) during startup. Once the box has initialized you spool up the helicopter just like you would with any other. Raise throttle trim until the rotors start spinning, then raise throttle to the half way mark. Then switch into idle up mode and finally switch to idle up two which activates the flight computer. In idle up and normal mode the helicopter flies without the assistance of the NRI unit.
Buffer Zone Controls - The buffer zone is activated and deactivated automatically depending on altitude. In this mode the left stick determines what mode you fly in and the right stick is dependent on the left stick. With the left stick at the top you are in vertical mode. Rudder acts as it normally does while the right stick controls climb rate. You simply push up on the right stick to climb and down on the right stick to descend. With the left stick at the bottom you enter horizontal mode. As with vertical mode rudder remains the same. The right stick now controls like it would on a normal helicopter. Push forward and the helicopter will enter forward flight, pull back to enter backwards flight. Let off and the helicopter will return to a hover. Left and right movement of the right stick move the helicopter left and right.
Operating Altitude Controls - Once you leave the buffer zone the helicopter controls like a regular remote control helicopter. The left stick controls rudder and collective while the right controls the cyclic. The NRI control system limits the speed at which the helicopter can move and returns the helicopter to a hover as soon as the sticks are released.
Landing - Landing is just as simple as flying the unit. While out of the buffer zone lower collective and the machine will stop descending once it enters the buffer zone. At this point use horizontal mode to position the helicopter over the landing area. Put the helicopter in vertical mode and land. Very simple and smooth
Emergency Situations - The way the software is setup all you would need to do if you had to do a forced auto would be switch to idle up. You would then auto it like any other helicopter. Having it easy to disable the flight computer is a very good idea and was well thought out.
Pricing - *all subject to change, please contact NRI for latest information and prices. The Autocopter Express E sells for $16,700. This includes:
- Maxi Joker 2
- Flight Computer, GPS unit and 3-axis gyro
- Futaba Transmitter and Battery
- One set of (2) 8000mah batteries to power the helicopter
- One 1600mah battery to power the flight computer
- Battery Charger
- Compass to properly align the helicopter for initilization
- All necessary cables
- Instructional Video
- Operators Manual
- Two day operator training at NRI facility in Huntsville, AL - $1000
- Operation Support Kit, includes basic tools and additional batteries - $1000
- Domestic Shipping, includes insurance - $500
- International Shipping , includes insurance - $1000
- Camera Mount - $800 to $2000 depending on model
- Liability Insurance, price is estimate covering one unit for one year - $2500
- Operations Support Contract, one year covering parts and labor - $1200
- Flight Software, Support and Upgrades - $1000
- Limited Autonomous Flight, uses GPS way points for flight - $1000
- Full Autonomous Ground Station includes: - $5000
- Laptop with radio modems
- Satellite map display
- Joystick Control
- Real time aircraft position data
Nice work guys
Labels: Autocopter, Express E, Maxi Joker 2, Neural Robotics, NRI, panoramic
Saturday, November 04, 2006
My answers to the Ever-Popular: How much can my Heli Lift?
I see this on average about twice a month on the various boards, someone is looking at AP and wants to try it with their current Helicopter. People are successfully using everything from small helicopters with 315mm blades to large machines swinging 810mm blades or bigger. Now notice I didn't mention any names there, only blade size. I will be doing this write up based on blade size because that is the determining factor for how much you can lift. This article will be a constant work in progress as I find more information. I will list some helicopters running each size blade so you can easier relate it to your helicopter. The amount you can lift also varies by how much your helicopter weighs without the camera mount and extra fear. Blade size is in millimeters measured from the end of the blade to the bolt hole. Keep in mind these are max or near max weights and the helicopter will auto horribly if fully loaded.
Blade Size (mm) - Helicopters - Max SAFE Lifting Capability (g,oz,lb) - Notes
315mm - T-Rex 450 - 450g, 15.87oz, 1lb - keep the total flying weight under 2.2lb
500mm - Logo 10 - 1360g, 48oz, 3lb - keep total flying weight under 9lb
550mm - 30 Size, Century Swift, Logo 14 - 1587g, 56oz, 3.5lb - keep total flying weight under 10lb
600mm - T-Rex 600, 50 size Helicopter, Logo 20/24 - 1815g, 64oz, 4lb -keep total flying under 11lb
720mm - Gasser, Joker - 6800g, 240oz, 15lb -
800mm - Gasser, Maxi Joker - 9071g, 320oz, 20lb -
810mm - Gasser - 11300g, 400oz, 25lb -
Blade type will play a role here symmetric blades will offer the least lift, semi-symmetric will offer more while flat bottom blades will offer the most lift. However flat bottom will fly bad if there is any wind and semi symmetrical blades will fly worse than fully symmetrical blades in wind. Some people have three sets of blades that they swap out depending on lift needed and weather conditions. I used standard fully symmetrical blades with good results. These will vary dependent on power setup, gear ratio, head speed, helicopter weight, etc but this should give you an idea.
Blade Size (mm) - Helicopters - Max SAFE Lifting Capability (g,oz,lb) - Notes
315mm - T-Rex 450 - 450g, 15.87oz, 1lb - keep the total flying weight under 2.2lb
500mm - Logo 10 - 1360g, 48oz, 3lb - keep total flying weight under 9lb
550mm - 30 Size, Century Swift, Logo 14 - 1587g, 56oz, 3.5lb - keep total flying weight under 10lb
600mm - T-Rex 600, 50 size Helicopter, Logo 20/24 - 1815g, 64oz, 4lb -keep total flying under 11lb
720mm - Gasser, Joker - 6800g, 240oz, 15lb -
800mm - Gasser, Maxi Joker - 9071g, 320oz, 20lb -
810mm - Gasser - 11300g, 400oz, 25lb -
Blade type will play a role here symmetric blades will offer the least lift, semi-symmetric will offer more while flat bottom blades will offer the most lift. However flat bottom will fly bad if there is any wind and semi symmetrical blades will fly worse than fully symmetrical blades in wind. Some people have three sets of blades that they swap out depending on lift needed and weather conditions. I used standard fully symmetrical blades with good results. These will vary dependent on power setup, gear ratio, head speed, helicopter weight, etc but this should give you an idea.
Labels: Gasser, Joker, Logo, logo 20, logo 24, Maxi Joker, raptor 30, raptor 50, swift 10, t-rex
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
Camera Mount Weights
Awaiting information from Manufacturers
A very commonly asked question on the boards is what is the weight of (insert mount name here). I have emailed the mount manufacturers and this is what I have found. I am still awaiting numbers from some of the manufacturers.
Airfoil Helicam - www.airfoilskycam.comT-rex with roll and manual tilt: 3.5 oz, 99.223 grams, 0.219 lbs
T-rex with roll and tilt: 4.7 oz, 133.243 grams, 0.294 lbs
M1 Carbon 30: 24 oz, 680.389 grams, 1.5 lbs
M1 Carbon 30P: 30 oz, 850.486 grams, 1.875 lbs
Professional M1 Carbon: oz, grams, lbs
Airfoil Pro 1: 72 oz, =2041.165 grams, 4.5 lbs
Sport 30: 19.2 oz, 544.311 grams, 1.2 lbs
Sport 60: 25.6 oz, 725.748 grams, 1.6 lbs
Pro 60: oz, grams, lbs
Pro 60 3x: oz, grams, lbs
Broadcast: oz, grams, lbs
Broadcast 180: oz, grams, lbs
Broadcast 360: oz, grams, lbs
Mark IV: oz, grams, lbs
Askman AP - www.askmanap.comT-rex: 3.880 oz, 110 grams, 0.243 lbs
T-rex Pro: 4.938 oz, 140 grams, 0.309 lbs
LMH Corona: oz, grams, lbs
Icarus Eco 8: oz, grams, lbs
Century Swift: oz, grams, lbs
Logo 10: oz, grams, lbs
Medium Heli Mount: oz, grams, lbs
CopterFilms - www.cfcoptercams.com
CF30: 48.56 oz, 1300 grams, 2.866 lbs
CF34: 63.5 oz, 1800 grams, 3.968 lbs
Photo Higher
Fly Pod 2X-AP – 1.25Kg / 2.75 pounds
Fly Pod 3X-AP – 1.46Kg / 3.22 pounds
Fly Pod 3XR-AP – 2.96kg / 6.51 pounds
Fly Pod Gymble 2X-AP – 550 grams / 1.21 pounds
Fly Pod Gymble 3X-AP – 770 grams / 1.69 pounds
Hope this proves helpful
Labels: Airfoil Helicams, Askman AP, Helicam Solutions
Monday, October 30, 2006
Helicopter based Aerial Photography
Helicopters, they are expensive, hard to fly and have issues with vibrations. So why would anyone want to use one of these things for aerial photography? They are extremely flexible, can lift large loads and don't need a large area for takeoff and landing; that's why. That flexibility comes from their ability to hold at various altitudes easily which allows for many photographs to be taken from each angle ensuring you get what you need. A good pilot can put a helicopter anywhere in the air you want to get pictures from, and he/she can hold it there until you have all the photos you need. Then they can quickly move to another position allowing multiple angles per flight. With a mast system you would need to collapse, move and then setup again hoping you are in the right spot. One of the more debated issues with a helicam system is the camera mount. The mount used has an influence on how the helicopter will hover, fly, land and recover in an emergency.
Underslung Mounts
Most people entering the aerial photography field go with a underslung camera mount. The reason, they are readily available from companies like Askman AP, Helicam Solutions and Airfoil Helicam. These mounts have been rigorously tested and save the user the trouble of building their own mount which can take a lot of time and testing. All three companies make mounts for various sized helicopters from the small T-Rex platform to a large Gasser.
Most of these mounts strap to the landing skids of the helicopter which allows the helicopter to be used for no AP flying as well. Generally this is done with small bungee type cords, it is recommended to use zip ties as well to assure the mount does not come loose during flight. The weight of the camera and mount help the helicopter handle wind and improves overall stability. One benefit of the underslung type mount is the ability to mount it with the camera facing forwards or backwards. If there is strong wind you can keep the nose into the wind or at least closer to nose in to the wind because of this. Some underslung mounts offer full 360 pan capability this way the pilot can always point the helicopter where he wants and the camera can still look the right direction. A nice bonus of the underslung for the older pilots is that it is easier to see the helicopter and the orientation of the helicopter when flown far away. Underslung mounts can be used for photography as well as videography equally well.
Underslung mounts do have a few downsides to consider though. In the event of a forced auto or emergency landing the camera mount will take a majority of the force from the landing. Because your camera is below the helicopter it may be damaged as well. Landing with an underslung mount should be done with very little or no lateral motion, because the helicopter is so high off the ground it is easy to tip over on landing. This is generally not an issue but should be considered. Some argue that for video to be taken in forward flight a front mount is better suited but that is arguable.
Front Mounts
Front mounts are somewhat more rare to see in use. Bergen makes a gasser with a front mount, the Bergen Observer and DJ of the HeliFreak forums sold many front mounts for the Raptor 50 platform this summer however I believe the raptor front mounts are now out of production. Thanks to DJ many people have made the jump to front mounts using a affordable Raptor and his lightweight front mount. Others have simply built their own front mounts custom to fit their current helicopter. With a front mount it is usually not practical to remove and reattach it for each job so this generally means a dedicated photography helicopter. This is not a problem though as most people have a dedicated ship they use only for aerial photography work even with a underslung mount.
Front mount setups can be lighter than a comparable underslung because you don't have the weight of a full undercarriage. Landings don't need to be as precise and slowed down as with the underslung because you are using the regular landing gear of the helicopter you set it down as you normally would without worry of a tip over. This is especially important when doing an auto rotation as you can maintain some forward speed for the landing. This makes autos somewhat easier with a front mount.
Because most front mounts are built into the helicopter frame vibration can be an issue if no dampeners are used. Most front mounts bolt to the frame through vibration isolators to help with this. Since the camera is attached to the front of the helicopter it is not possible to do a 360 with the camera without the helicopter blocking a portion. Some current designs feature 270 degree of pan and 180 degrees of tilt which allows you do get most shots without moving the helicopter. For video 360 isn't as essential or useful as it is for a person doing photography. One thing that the front mount lacks is the stabilizing effect that the underslung has. While the weight of the mount will help the helicopter in wind and help settle it some it does not have the same effect of the underslung.
Conclusion
I currently use an underslung mount from Airfoil Helicam and love the flexibility it gives me. I have looked at front mounts but prefer the underslung characteristics for what I am currently doing.
Underslung Mounts
Most people entering the aerial photography field go with a underslung camera mount. The reason, they are readily available from companies like Askman AP, Helicam Solutions and Airfoil Helicam. These mounts have been rigorously tested and save the user the trouble of building their own mount which can take a lot of time and testing. All three companies make mounts for various sized helicopters from the small T-Rex platform to a large Gasser.
Most of these mounts strap to the landing skids of the helicopter which allows the helicopter to be used for no AP flying as well. Generally this is done with small bungee type cords, it is recommended to use zip ties as well to assure the mount does not come loose during flight. The weight of the camera and mount help the helicopter handle wind and improves overall stability. One benefit of the underslung type mount is the ability to mount it with the camera facing forwards or backwards. If there is strong wind you can keep the nose into the wind or at least closer to nose in to the wind because of this. Some underslung mounts offer full 360 pan capability this way the pilot can always point the helicopter where he wants and the camera can still look the right direction. A nice bonus of the underslung for the older pilots is that it is easier to see the helicopter and the orientation of the helicopter when flown far away. Underslung mounts can be used for photography as well as videography equally well.
Underslung mounts do have a few downsides to consider though. In the event of a forced auto or emergency landing the camera mount will take a majority of the force from the landing. Because your camera is below the helicopter it may be damaged as well. Landing with an underslung mount should be done with very little or no lateral motion, because the helicopter is so high off the ground it is easy to tip over on landing. This is generally not an issue but should be considered. Some argue that for video to be taken in forward flight a front mount is better suited but that is arguable.
Front Mounts
Front mounts are somewhat more rare to see in use. Bergen makes a gasser with a front mount, the Bergen Observer and DJ of the HeliFreak forums sold many front mounts for the Raptor 50 platform this summer however I believe the raptor front mounts are now out of production. Thanks to DJ many people have made the jump to front mounts using a affordable Raptor and his lightweight front mount. Others have simply built their own front mounts custom to fit their current helicopter. With a front mount it is usually not practical to remove and reattach it for each job so this generally means a dedicated photography helicopter. This is not a problem though as most people have a dedicated ship they use only for aerial photography work even with a underslung mount.
Front mount setups can be lighter than a comparable underslung because you don't have the weight of a full undercarriage. Landings don't need to be as precise and slowed down as with the underslung because you are using the regular landing gear of the helicopter you set it down as you normally would without worry of a tip over. This is especially important when doing an auto rotation as you can maintain some forward speed for the landing. This makes autos somewhat easier with a front mount.
Because most front mounts are built into the helicopter frame vibration can be an issue if no dampeners are used. Most front mounts bolt to the frame through vibration isolators to help with this. Since the camera is attached to the front of the helicopter it is not possible to do a 360 with the camera without the helicopter blocking a portion. Some current designs feature 270 degree of pan and 180 degrees of tilt which allows you do get most shots without moving the helicopter. For video 360 isn't as essential or useful as it is for a person doing photography. One thing that the front mount lacks is the stabilizing effect that the underslung has. While the weight of the mount will help the helicopter in wind and help settle it some it does not have the same effect of the underslung.
Conclusion
I currently use an underslung mount from Airfoil Helicam and love the flexibility it gives me. I have looked at front mounts but prefer the underslung characteristics for what I am currently doing.
Labels: Airfoil, Askman, Front Mount, Helicam, Underslung
Sunday, October 29, 2006
My thoughts on the Gas, Electric Nitro Debate
This topic comes up just about anytime someone asks what helicopter they should get to use for aerial photography work. This will be focused on helicopters but many things will carry over to fixed wing platforms.
When I asked this question when I first started looking at aerial photography, here is one response I got that pretty much sums it up.
"Nitro = too messy, Electric = too expensive, Turbine = WAY too expensive, Gasser = just right" - Daggit, RunRyder
This was very true at the time, however there are some new battery technologies that are making electric a much more cost effective solution.
Nitro - Nitro is what most people start with when they get into helicopters. I started with a Raptor 30 6 years ago as did many people at that time. Nitro engines have good power output at the expense of being loud and messy. If you plan on running a nitro cameraship you will need to route the exhaust away from the camera, most people do this with a piece of hose or tail boom. A 50 size nitro ship is a good setup for those looking to use their current helicopter as a helicam for experimenting in the AP world.
Electric - Since the introduction of the Align T-Rex the world of electric helicopters has exploded. Some people are using the cheap and readily availbe T-Rex as a small cameraship. The next step up from this would be a Mikado Logo 10 or Thunder Tiger Raptor 50 converted to electric. The Logo 10 will lift around 4 pounds of equipment while the raptor platform can lift around 6 pounds. The heavy lifters in the eletric world are the Mikado Logo 24 Bionic, and the ultimate workhorse the Maxi-Joker 2 which is built with lifting camera equipment in mind.
Over the past year battery technology has come a long way. Lithium batteries are standard for good flight times and enough power to haul camera gear around. The batteries are expensive, can be dangerous if handled improperly. However two new batteries have entered the scene. The batteries built for use in power tool are Emoil and A123, they charge fast are nearly indistructible and are about much cheaper that regular lithium cells. This comes as a weight penalty which means shorter flight times but because you could have 3 or more for the price of one similar lithium it is a trade off many pilots are fine making. Because of these batteries I am currently looking at moving from a large gasser to a Logo 10 setup running a123 cells.
Gas - Gassers are the heavy lifters in the aerial photography world. They offer long flight time and lots of lift at the expense of vibration and weight. Most gassers will easily lift 10 pounds, those running 800mm or larger blades have the ability to lift around 15 pounds of equipment. This means the total flying weight is generally 20-25 pounds, this is a lot of weight to carry around if you take off from multiple spaces for a shoot. I have used golf carts and small trailers to transport the helicopter. The 2 cycle engines used are inherent to vibration, usually proper tuning can make them run relatively smooth but there will still be vibrations. Once you have a gasser running smooth it will provide you with long flight times, tons of lifting power and a reliable ship. A consideration you may need to make is the size of these helicopters. I had to buy a pickup truck to transport mine because it would not fit in my little hatchback. This is what I currently use but am looking at moving to a Logo 10 setup because the gasser is an overkill for my work.
Turbine - The top end of remote control helicopters. Turbines are very smooth with little vibration, have long run times and can lift more than gassers. However a turbine ship starts around $7000 vs $1200 for a gasser. They are relatively new on the scene but those using them seem to love the low vibration and long run times. These ships are generally the same size as a gasser. I will add more to this later...need to do some more research.
When I asked this question when I first started looking at aerial photography, here is one response I got that pretty much sums it up.
"Nitro = too messy, Electric = too expensive, Turbine = WAY too expensive, Gasser = just right" - Daggit, RunRyder
This was very true at the time, however there are some new battery technologies that are making electric a much more cost effective solution.
Nitro - Nitro is what most people start with when they get into helicopters. I started with a Raptor 30 6 years ago as did many people at that time. Nitro engines have good power output at the expense of being loud and messy. If you plan on running a nitro cameraship you will need to route the exhaust away from the camera, most people do this with a piece of hose or tail boom. A 50 size nitro ship is a good setup for those looking to use their current helicopter as a helicam for experimenting in the AP world.
Electric - Since the introduction of the Align T-Rex the world of electric helicopters has exploded. Some people are using the cheap and readily availbe T-Rex as a small cameraship. The next step up from this would be a Mikado Logo 10 or Thunder Tiger Raptor 50 converted to electric. The Logo 10 will lift around 4 pounds of equipment while the raptor platform can lift around 6 pounds. The heavy lifters in the eletric world are the Mikado Logo 24 Bionic, and the ultimate workhorse the Maxi-Joker 2 which is built with lifting camera equipment in mind.
Over the past year battery technology has come a long way. Lithium batteries are standard for good flight times and enough power to haul camera gear around. The batteries are expensive, can be dangerous if handled improperly. However two new batteries have entered the scene. The batteries built for use in power tool are Emoil and A123, they charge fast are nearly indistructible and are about much cheaper that regular lithium cells. This comes as a weight penalty which means shorter flight times but because you could have 3 or more for the price of one similar lithium it is a trade off many pilots are fine making. Because of these batteries I am currently looking at moving from a large gasser to a Logo 10 setup running a123 cells.
Gas - Gassers are the heavy lifters in the aerial photography world. They offer long flight time and lots of lift at the expense of vibration and weight. Most gassers will easily lift 10 pounds, those running 800mm or larger blades have the ability to lift around 15 pounds of equipment. This means the total flying weight is generally 20-25 pounds, this is a lot of weight to carry around if you take off from multiple spaces for a shoot. I have used golf carts and small trailers to transport the helicopter. The 2 cycle engines used are inherent to vibration, usually proper tuning can make them run relatively smooth but there will still be vibrations. Once you have a gasser running smooth it will provide you with long flight times, tons of lifting power and a reliable ship. A consideration you may need to make is the size of these helicopters. I had to buy a pickup truck to transport mine because it would not fit in my little hatchback. This is what I currently use but am looking at moving to a Logo 10 setup because the gasser is an overkill for my work.
Turbine - The top end of remote control helicopters. Turbines are very smooth with little vibration, have long run times and can lift more than gassers. However a turbine ship starts around $7000 vs $1200 for a gasser. They are relatively new on the scene but those using them seem to love the low vibration and long run times. These ships are generally the same size as a gasser. I will add more to this later...need to do some more research.
Labels: Electric, Gasser, Nitro, Turbine
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
An overview of Aerial Photography Platforms
This Article is a Work in Progress but has most of the relevant info
Aerial Photography was first practiced by a French photographer in 1858. Since that time the platforms used for aerial photography have changed. I'm going to go over some of the currently used platforms, try to give a few links for each as well as give some of the pros and cons of each. I am not going to cover full scale platforms such as airplanes, helicopters, ultralights and hot air balloons because I do not know enough about them at this time. Perhaps sometime in the future I will cover them or someone else could do a writeup.
Kite - If you were to go do a Google search for "Aerial Photography" the first few links would be satellite based then you would see Kite AP. Kite aerial photography is great for medium altitude shots. With a big enough kite you can lift a fairly substantial payload. Many are putting full pan and tilt systems on kites, similar to what is being used on helicopters. However kites need wind to fly and the wind needs to be in the right direction with no buildings blocking or creating turbulence. Kite aerial photography is often a great solution to low altitude photo shoots.
Links:-http://arch.ced.berkeley.edu/kap/
-http://scotthaefner.com/kap/
-http://www.bults.net/kapnet/index.php
Pros:
-Can fly in Various Winds
Cons:
-Dependant on Wind
Lighter than Air (Balloon/Blimp) - This is a very good and stable platform for photography use. Generally best suited for low and medium altitudes with little or no wind present. The ships themselves are expensive as are the mounts. There is also the cost of helium to keep the airship in the air. Many people use large trailers to transport the ship while inflated to save time and money on re-inflating the ship for every job. Jobs usually need to be scouted ahead of time to plan for the location of the tethers to properly align the ship for the photos. A bonus of the airship is advertising possibilities using the airship as a floating billboard.
-California Blimps
-Mini Zepp
Pros:
-Vibration Free
Cons:
-Possibility of tether break even with todays high tensile materials
-Expensive
-Wind will push the ship around
Pole / Mast - Very effective and invaluable tool for the aerial photographer or videographer. Setups can range from the inexpensive WonderPole that sells for about $250 to a custom built trailered setup (shown below) that Greg McNair sells for $5500. Many people who run helicopters also run masts for doing shots in areas it would not be safe to fly a helicopter setup. I will be purchasing a mast system this spring to give me more options on how to do a particular shoot. Masts are limited to around 55' by law in most areas. This is good for most low to medium altitude jobs and are very good for shots that must be done within city limits where there is not space to fly. Another option is the use of a lift, crane or specialized mast which allows for shots above 75 feet. Top View Solutions makes mast made to lift 16 pounds from 60-100 feet in most wind conditions. These are built exclusively for aerial photography and videography use. Purchasing a crane light this would be thousands of dollars, even renting one is fairly expensive. If a lift like this is rented you will generally need training on the machine or hire someone to run the lift while photographs are taken. Wind is a factor on the smaller 50' masts as well as the amount of weight they are able to lift. Generally you won't be able to extend the mast all the way if there is much wind or it is heavily loaded.
Links:
-http://www.topviewsolutions.nl/
Pros:
-Great for tight areas - Small footprint
-Indispensable tool for any photographer flying planes or helicopters
-Fairly inexpensive to start out with
-Safe
Cons:
-Limited weight capability
-Larger setups require a trailer, limiting mobility
Remote Control Helicopter - My personal favorite and tool of choice, helicopters are most likely the most flexible of the aerial platforms. Helicopters used in Aerial Photography range in size from small electrics to large gas powered ships. Helicopters are good for tight areas and can work at a wide range of altitudes. They are however difficult to operate, prone to vibration, dangerous to bystanders and need regular maintenance. The pilot of the helicopter must be constantly be aware of the helicopter and everything that is happening nearby. The use of a second person to work the camera as well as work as a spotter. It is desirable in some instances to have a third person work crowd control and keep anyone from bothering the pilot or photographer. Startup cost is fairly high as is the skill required to fly a helicopter in a public setting safely.
Links:
-Helicam Solutions
-Airfoil Helicam
-Askman AP
Pros:
-extremely flexible
-no need for runway
Cons:
-Vibration
-Difficult to Fly
Remote Control Airplane - Very good stable platform if there is room for takeoff and landing. Airplanes can be built large enough to lift large loads and fly in wind that would limit a mast or ground a small helicopter setup. Airplanes are fairly easy to fly and one can become proficient fairly quickly compared to a helicopter. In the case of a failure or emergency it is usually possible to get a plane down without too much trouble because they have the ability to glide unlike a helicopter. They are best suited for rooftop or higher shots as flying between buildings can get a little interesting with wind and turbulence. One of the most popular platform for those interested in getting their feet wet is the GWS Slow Stick (shown below) because of its low cost and great stability.
Links:
-
Pros:
-Stable
-Relatively easy to fly
Cons:
-Runway for takeoff/landing required
If anyone has pictures of their aerial platforms or info I could use it. Thanks, hope you enjoyed the writeup
Labels: Blimp, Fixed Wing, Helicopter, Mast, Plane
Thursday, October 19, 2006
My Aerial Photography Equipment
I'd like to go over the equipment I purchased and why I picked what I did.
Insurance - I put this first because I feel it is the most important for anyone looking to get into aerial photography. The guys over at RCAPA went through a lot of trouble to find a reasonably priced package for us. The package is provided by Hill and Usher insurance out of Phoenix, Arizona. It is specifically designed for people using remote control helicopters and airplanes for aerial photography. You can find all the details about the package HERE. Do not assume that your AMA coverage will cover you, if you are charging for your services you have no coverage through AMA. I carry my insurance binder with me to all jobs in case the client wants to verify I am insured. Do not think about doing aerial photography without insurance, it is not worth the risk. If there is enough interest I will do a full article on insurance.
The Camera - I am using a Canon Rebel XT (350D) digital SLR camera purchased from B&HPhotovideo. This is an 8 mega pixel camera so you can easily print up to 8 x 10 at 300dpi without any loss. I am currently using a 2gb card in the camera which allows for around 500 photos in JPEG and 150 in RAW, we have shot 150 JPEG images in a 10 minute flight before so it is nice to have space. Right now we use the standard 18-55mm lens, the total package with battery weighs in at only 1.6 pounds. I plan on purchasing a 10-22mm or similar lens in the future to allow for a wide field of view from a lower altitude. I use the automatic or A-dep mode on the camera with very good results.
The Helicopter - We are using a BergenRC Intrepid Gasser EB swinging 800mm blades which is powered by a stock Zenoah G26 gas engine. We run 5oz of synthetic oil per gallon of Ozark white gas, the white gas runs clean and doesn't have the smell of regular gasoline. This helicopter is rated for something like 20+ pounds of lifting capability on 810mm blades. My current camera and mount is barely 5 pounds and it flies like the weight isn't there. Our total flight weight is right around 20 pounds, it therefore takes a good amount of wind to effect it. I went with this helicopter for lifting capability, flight time and factory support. There is a chance I will be selling this as switching to a electric setup in the future and will update this as needed
The Mount - I currently use an Airfoil Helicam M1 Carbon camera mount. It is an underslung mount with servo operated pan and tilt, roll is dampened by rc car shock and rubber bands. The mount straps right onto the landing gear and works good. I am currently designing my own underslung mount as well as a front mount for the Bergen, I will get into the pros and cons of each in a later post. I went with this mount because I found one used for a good price. When shopping for a mount it is easy to think they overcharge for them but you need to think of the time that went into development and testing the product.
The Ground Station - I shoot as a two person team as well as alone on occasion so I needed a flexible ground station. We use the Black Widow A/V flexwav down link which displays what the camera sees on an Audiovox portable DVD player with a 7" screen. Everything is mounted on a tripod so it's easy to move and very flexible. It has worked great so far and I would recommend this to those shooting solo and with a dedicated cameraman.
Flight Stabilizer - One of the other tools I use on my camera ship is the Spartan RC AP2000i Flight Stabilizer. It can stabilize the helicopter in a stable hover giving me enough time to frame up shots and communicate with my cameraman. I also use it for shots over 100ft, I can switch it on and not worry as much about holding a hover. This allows me to focus on orientation and altitude. It has proved to be a worthwhile purchase.
Labels: bergen, canon, Equipment, Insurance
About the "Author"
I suppose it’s only right that I introduce myself and tell you a little bit about me to get things started. My name is Blake Tennessen, I am a student at
My interest in Aerial Photography was sparked when I saw a topic on RunRyder with some photographs from a member’s helicopter. I then started doing research, after a few months of research I began purchasing my equipment, making a website and looking for insurance. Finding the equipment was the easy part, after a few months of testing and tweaking things I was fully operational. Now I just needed to find some jobs...that is the hard part. I have only done a few jobs so far but each one is a learning experience and a lot of fun. I'll save that for later though.
The reason I decided to start this was to take some of the work out of finding information. I asked a lot of questions and did a lot of searching before I was sure what I was getting myself into. I want this to be a place that people can refer others to when they ask general questions on aerial photography.
What is this place?
I created this Blog as a place to accumulate links, information and ideas related to Aerial Photography. All forms of aerial photography will be discussed but the focus will be the use of remote control helicopters, masts, airplanes and blimps.
Some upcoming topics I will cover are:
- Who am I and what do I know about Aerial Photography?
- Useful links to have
- Insurance
- Kinds of Aerial Photography with advantages and disadvantages for each
- Filmography vs Photography - What to look for when shopping
- What lens is right for your application? Also Manual vs Automatic focus
- Closer look at Helicopter based AP - Focus on front vs underslung mounts
- Closer look at Airplane based AP - What is currently in use?
- Closer look at Mast Based AP - How are they being used
- Closer look at other forms of AP - Will cover blimps, kites and anything else I can find
- Some insight into the Gas vs Nitro vs Electric Debate
If you have a topic you would like me to research and post about let me know. This Blog will die if I have to keep coming up with topics every time. Give me some ideas and feedback to work with.
Some upcoming topics I will cover are:
- Who am I and what do I know about Aerial Photography?
- Useful links to have
- Insurance
- Kinds of Aerial Photography with advantages and disadvantages for each
- Filmography vs Photography - What to look for when shopping
- What lens is right for your application? Also Manual vs Automatic focus
- Closer look at Helicopter based AP - Focus on front vs underslung mounts
- Closer look at Airplane based AP - What is currently in use?
- Closer look at Mast Based AP - How are they being used
- Closer look at other forms of AP - Will cover blimps, kites and anything else I can find
- Some insight into the Gas vs Nitro vs Electric Debate
If you have a topic you would like me to research and post about let me know. This Blog will die if I have to keep coming up with topics every time. Give me some ideas and feedback to work with.
Subscribe to Posts [Atom]
